Carpenter Ants

What You Don't know Can Hurt You!

Carpenter Ants cause millions of dollars of damage annually to homes and buildings.

The damage is not the result of an invasion of swarming Carpenter Ants, but rather from the proliferation of well-established colonies and satellite colonies in walls and adjacent trees, shrubs and bushes. Since Carpenter Ants multiply in geometric progression, it does not take long for a full-blown infestation to develop. (Call and ask for BLISS Carpenter Ant Brochure for more details).

METHODS USED BY PEST CONTROL COMPANIES FOR CARPENTER ANT CONTROL

  1. 1. ONE OR TWO SHOT TREATMENT
    Exterminator treats outside and inside the house thoroughly, with one or two treatments spaced approximately 30 days apart and charges $300 - $400 and includes a re-treatment guarantee.

    THIS METHOD RARELY WORKS…because;
    • Only 10% of foraging ants are out feeding at any time, leaving 90% of the ants not exposed to the insecticide.
    • Most insecticides mandate by law have a residual life 25-30 days.
    • Longer lasting insecticides are either odoriferous, stain many surfaces and are harmful to vegetation.
    • Carpenter Ants can live without feeding for about six months, thus avoiding the toxic effect of short-term solutions of the preferable biodegradable insecticides.

    WE HAVE FREQUENTLY SEEN THIS METHOD EMPLOYED (SOMETIMES ANNUALLY) ONLY TO SEE INFESTATIONS WORSEN…ALONG WITH INCREASED DAMAGE TO THE WOOD IN A STRUCTURE.
  2. DRILLING WALLS
    In this case the exterminator drills holes in the walls of the house, inserts dust and/or aerosol gases into the walls voids.

    THIS METHOD RARELY WORKS…because;
    • To get complete coverage in walls, holes must be drilled every 16" between studs. I addition, spaces above and below fire stops must be drilled up and down wall.
    • Wall insulation and fire stops abort proper spread of insecticide.
    • Nest in floor, ceilings, eaves and roof rafters are not affected and proliferate.*
  3. LOCATING AND DESTROYING THE ENTIRE NEST
    The exterminator inspects the premises and assumes the nest has been located. He then drills holes and injects the site with insecticide, and assumes that all Carpenter Ants have been eliminated

    SOUNDS GOOD - BUT ITS IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCOMPLISH.
    • It is difficult to observe the movements of Carpenter Ants since they are mainly nocturnal and take different paths in and out of their nests each time they emerge.
    • While they are often seen in kitchens (around the dishwasher and garbage disposal) and in bathrooms, their nests are usually elsewhere.
    • The main nest could be outside in trees while there is often more than one satellite nest* somewhere in the walls and other void spaces in the house.
    • Any drilling or hammering to treat a nest will agitate the ants and they will move their nest(s) (which are extremely mobile) to a new site.

    AT BEST THIS METHOD IS A GUESSING GAME… WHICH THE CARPENTER ANTS USUALLY WIN!

    * A recent survey in the State of Connecticut found that there were an average of 10-12 carpenter ant satellite colonies in structures with carpenter ants problems.
  4. THE BLISS TWO-PRONGED APPROACH

    ONE…ELIMINATE THE NESTS IN THE STRUCTURE BY…

    ESTABLISHING AN INSECT-TOXIC BARRIER AROUND THE PRIMETER OF THE HOUSE, BOTH INSIDE AND OUT, WITH A BIDEGRADABLE, MICROENCAPSULATED, ODORLESS, RESIDUAL INSECTICIDE (see note).

    Since Carpenter Ants do not eat wood…they must come out to feed. As the foraging adults emerge from their nests in the walls to feed (whether they are feeding indoors or outdoors) they must pass through our barrier. In so doing they absorb our material in their antennae and are eliminated. One of the functions of the foraging adults is to return to their nest and regurgitate the food to the immature and the queen. If there is no one available to perform the vital function, the young, the queen, etc will starve. In effect we eliminate the foraging adults and starve the young, the immature and the queen in their nests, thus eliminating the nests no matter where they are located.

    ONE (A)… RENEW AND MAINTAIN THAT BARRIER THROUGH MONTHLY TREATMENT FOR TWELVE CONSECUTIVE MONTHS. IT IS CRITICAL THAT THIS PROGRAM BE FOLLOWED, SINCE THE INSECTICIDE MANDATED BY LAW MUST BE BIODEGRADABLE AND LOSE THEIR EFFECTIVENESSS IN APPROSIMATELY 25 TO 30 DAYS…AND SO,

    These treatments must continue through all the Carpenter Ant life stages*. If treatment is stopped prematurely, the Carpenter Ants can regenerate their nests and the damage and problems will continue.

    *The life cycle of the Northern Carpenter Ant is approximately 10 months. (Each of the four stages takes 2 to 3 months to complete).

    TWO…INFORM PROPERTY OWNER OF INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT METHODS (IPM).

    During our treatment, we will point out to the property owner a non-chemical and in most cases a cost-free method of preventing a recurrence of the problem.

    THE COST OF THE BLISS PROGRAM AVERAGES APPROXIMATELY $65.00 PER TREATMENT FOR MOST HOUSES AS PART OF A TWELVE CONSECUTIVE MONTH PROGRAM. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THERE ARE NO HIATUS IN THE COURSE OF THE TREATMENT TO ASSURE THE MOST EFFECTIVE RESULTS.

    WE HAVE USED THIS APPROACH EXCLUSIVELY TO CONTROL CARPENTERS ANTS INTHOUSANDS OF HOMES EVERY YEAR FOR THE PAST TWENTY YEARS WITH GREAT SUCCESS.

    NOTE ABOUT THE INSECTICIDE WE USE: The "Signal Word" (which is an Environmental Protection Agency measure of toxicity) for the material we use is "Caution". It is the same Signal Word assigned to other products in your home such as Windex, Mr. Clean, dishwasher soap and boric acid.

Carpenter Ant Management for Homes

Our carpenter ant service will control infestations in homes and help prevent new infestations. However certain conducive conditions make a home more vulnerable to carpenter ant infestation.

There are non-chemical measures homeowners can take to make a home less likely to be reinfested by carpenter ants and less vulnerable to other insect and rodent pests as well.

Some of the measures you can take include:

  • Correcting exterior and interior moisture problems including leaking flashing, clogged gutters and downspouts, roof leaks, plumbing leaks.
  • Trimming trees and bushes at least three feet away from buildings.
  • Removing tree stumps within 50 feet from a building.
  • Sealing knotholes in damaged trees.
  • Making sure that the grading of the soil is tiled away from foundation walls.
  • Keeping leaf litter away from the foundation of building.
  • If you use mulch keep it six inches away from the foundation and do not overmulch.
  • Storing firewood off the ground and away from buildings.
  • Only bring firewood in the house that you will use that day.
  • Eliminate wood to soil contact.
  • Replace any rotten wood.
  • Weather-strip exterior doors.
  • Caulk crevices around doors, windows, vents and outdoor plumbing entry points.
  • Screen all windows and vents.
  • Reduce condensation in attics and crawlspaces by making sure there is proper ventilation.
  • Keep food, garbage and birdseed in sealed containers.
  • Eliminate standing water outside in old tires, kiddy pools and birdbaths

For Carpenter Ant control the most important of these steps is to correct any moisture problem in the structure. Moisture buildup in the walls, ceilings and/or sub floors of the structure will attract carpenter ants and allow them to buildup. Moisture problems can obstruct and inhibit our treatment process.

Contact the Bliss office near you or email us your request for more information on our carpenter ant program for your home.